You can never be sure where a fabric comes from…or can you?
Have you ever wondered where your clothes come from? What journey the fabric made from the sourcing of the raw material to the production process to finally land in your hands? How does it affect the environment? After all, every action creates a ripple effect…
In fact, the textile industry is not merely about aesthetics; it significantly impacts climate change, pollution, and biodiversity loss. The United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) indicates in it´s Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook that this sector accounts for 2-8% of global greenhouse gas emissions, consumes 215 trillion liters of water, and contributes to 9% of ocean microfiber pollution. UNEP aims to transition the textile value chain towards sustainability and circularity. In March 2022, the European Commission (EC) introduced the 'EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles', targeting a reduction in the negative effects of textile production and consumption. To address these challenges, the EC proposes various measures, including comprehensive tracking of resource consumption, implementing various traceability tools for verifying product origins.
Dr. Gözde Bayer, R&D technical coordinator of the DNACotton located at Ankara University Technopolis, also recognized a pressing need for improved traceability and sustainability in the textile industry. In collaboration with İSKUR Textile Inc., Kahramanmaraş. her team embarked on the journey of developing a solution.
Through their research, the team uncovered that existing traceability systems were often susceptible to manipulation, which undermined their reliability. The motivation behind founding DNACotton was deeply rooted in these challenges facing the textile industry, such as sourcing raw materials, managing production processes, and ensuring transparency along the entire supply chain.
Their solution, which integrates DNA nanoparticle technology with QR codes, promises a robust, tamper-proof method that guarantees the provenance and authenticity of textiles as they progress through the supply chain.
DNACotton´s team consists of experts in biotechnology, sustainable materials, and blockchain technology. Their collective experience spans academia and the textile industry, with a focus on innovative solutions. Currently, the team comprises 4 main dedicated professionals: Dr. Gözde Bayer, (R&D Project Manager), Mr. Hüseyin Altingöz (Project Coordinator), Ms. Gerçem Altunordu (R&D Specialist), and Mr. Sinan Atasagun (Business & Process Analysis Coordinator). Additionally, Mr. Mert Başaran, a Mechanical Engineer, is part of the team, along with collaborative efforts from Dr. Mehmet Kertmen, the R&D Manager at İSKUR Tekstil, who specializes in Textile Engineering.
One significant challenge the young company faced was the catastrophic earthquake that struck the region on February 6, 2023, where their first customer, İSKUR Tekstil, is located. This disaster brought unprecedented difficulties, affecting the start-up in every aspect. In addressing the challenges encountered, they faced several technical obstacles, such as unforeseen integration issues of our dual-verification system, which delayed project milestones by approximately 3 months.
"However, these challenges prompted the team to enhance their technical training and resource allocation, ultimately leading to the effective validation of their prototype interface with 100% success”
, states Gözde Bayer. As for the name, DNACotton reflects their core focus on integrating DNA technology into textile applications, directly emphasizing their commitment to sustainable practices in the textiles sector. This name encapsulates the company´s vision of revolutionizing fabric traceability, resonating with their mission and goals.
A unique identification code for every textile
A prime example for the challenges of the textile industry is the tracking of harmful chemicals employed throughout the process of T-shirt prints, shoes, and handbags, especially those made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Exposure to PVC entails exposure to both phthalates and chlorine. Phthalates, known as endocrine disruptors, alter the production and distribution of hormones within the human body. Furthermore, PVC poses environmental concerns due to its arduous recyclability.
“This single instance highlights the significance of labeling requirements that can educate consumers about the materials and chemicals utilized in textile products”
, explains Gözde Bayer. In response, an innovative project DNABarkod® is underway to implement a robust traceability system using synthetic DNA nanoparticles and Quick Response (QR) codes. This technology enables a dual/simultaneous verification process to ensure product authenticity and traceability, significantly reducing counterfeiting while improving supply chain transparency. The synthesized DNA, free of GMOs and safe for human health, will be embedded in textiles, creating unique identifiers for each product. Furthermore, the team developed a software solution combined with a Cloud system, that connects the QR code on the product with the genetic code on the nanoparticle. During all stages of the production process, the code is scanned and saved in the databank. This way, gapless information about the whole lifecycle of a product is created.
Additionally, DNACotton´s innovation proves an significant advantage compared to competitors on the market: Tracebility systems like RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) are susceptible to manipulation. RFID usually works with codes physically printed on the fabrics, which can be easily changed or multiplied.
With DNABarkod® the DNA particles with a unique and clear sequence are embeded on the product, ensuring the integrity and safety of the whole system.
To summarize, the solution does not only prove advantageous to customers, but also enables a statistical process control and analysis for producers to optimize the fabrication process. Monitoring the production process and identifying possible inefficiencies deliver valuable information for this optimization. This way, companies, who support fair labour and sustainable sourcing are recognized better by the customer, promoting a circular economy and a more sustainable textile industry.
Next up at DNACotton
The start-up´s current focus is on scaling their operations, which includes demonstrating the effectiveness of their technology in a denim recycling chain aimed at reducing textile waste significantly. DNACotton is excited about their potential impact, as studies indicate that their DNA-based tracking system can save 25-50% in costs associated with production and product verification, reinforcing their commitment to sustainability. In their future outlook, they aim to revitalize the industrial area affected by the earthquake through their initiatives. DNACotton believes that by implementing their technology, they can contribute significantly to the recovery and growth of the region.
With their innovative approach, DNACotton actively contributes to SDG 12 (Responsible Consumption and Production), SDG 9 (Industry, Innovation, and Infrastructure), SDG 13 (Climate Action) and SDG 8 (Decent Work and Economic Growth).
